FSC accredited, independent, third-party certification bodies or certifiers certify forests. They assess forest management using the FSC principles, criteria, and standards, each certifier uses their own evaluative process. This allows FSC to remain outside of the assessment process, and supports the integrity of the standard, and of the FSC system. Certifiers evaluate both forest management activities forest certification and tracking of forest products chain-of-custody certification. There are 12 FSC-accredited certifiers around the globe.
Forest landowners or managers can contact an accredited FSC certifier if they are interested in becoming certified. Certifiers engage in a contractual relationship with the landowner-manager to assess forest management against the FSC standard approved for the region where the forest is located. The general public is notified about certification assessments before they take place so that the certifiers, helping assure the integrity of the process, can hear a full range of voices. At the close, an assessment summary report is made public, while at the same time keeping the company's proprietary information confidential. If the forest management operations assessed quality for certification, the landowner can choose to sign a certification contract. This event results in their being certified and brings with it the landowner's commitment to continue to practice forestry in a certifiable fashion.
The contract's duration is five years, at which point a full assessment will be conducted again if the landowner wishes to continue being certified. These five-year audits are supplemented by annual audits to verify that the terms of the contract are being followed, and facilitate regular contact between the certificate holder and certifier.
For those companies who manufacture or trade certified products, a different form of certification applies. Again, to assure the credibility of claims on products, it is important to track materials as they leave the forest and become products down stream. This chain of custody COC certification process is quite simple. Like any inventory control system, COC allows products to be segregated and identified as having come from a particular source in this case, an FSC certified forest.
FSC's model of certification allows products that flow from certified forests to enter the marketplace with a credential that is unique. Any FSC labeled product can be traced back to a certified source. This aspect of the system is the basis for any credible certification system and is the link between consumer preference and responsible, on the ground forest management.
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Whether you're remodeling a classic staircase in your living room or rebuilding a staircase from scratch, it's important to know the basic terminology of stair repair before shopping for parts. Basically, stairs are comprised of treads and risers. Layered over these treads and risers are handrails, balusters, strings and caps, newel posts, and so forth.
Let's define some of the most common stair parts, so you can calibrate your construction needs more carefully. The newel is a base post that's set at the bottom and top of your stairway. Oftentimes, a newel post will be carved elaborately for decorative purposes. Yet the function of the newel is crucial. Without strong newel support, your staircase will shake and rattle whenever someone uses it.
The Crucial Newel Posts
Newels are used in practically every kind of staircase, including spiral staircases, circular stairs, and straight 90° stairs. The newel post's ability to stabilize your staircase depends on your ability to calculate the rise and run of your staircase correctly. For this, you need a suite of measurement tools. In addition, you should work from a detailed layout or architectural drawing.
The balustrade is the general term for the assembly of newels and other rails. It's comprised of iron spindles, rails, caps, newels, and balusters. The balusters are individual posts that connect the handrails to the floor steps. While the balustrade lends significant structural support to the staircase, the real anchor of the construction will always be the newel post.
Elegant Baluster Supports
The balusters, otherwise known as iron spindles, can be plain or ornate. Even though iron balusters link up the handrails and the floor, they're not to meant to sustain a lot of force. Indeed, the purpose of iron balusters is primarily to prevent stair users from falling off the side. Standard domestic regulations require that balusters be no more than 100 mm apart from one another.
Balusters come into main varieties--sawn balusters and turned balusters. Classic sawn balusters are put together with their edges touching. However, you can space them out if that matches the aesthetics of your staircase decor. Regardless of which variety you choose, it's important to measure the spindle lengths carefully before proceeding with construction.
Undergirding Your Stairs with a Sub Rail
Another major stair part is the sub rail. There are many reasons to install a sub rail on your staircase. First of all, it adds a touch of old world flare by making your handrails look taller than they are. Second, when you put in sub rails, you have the option of making your handrails a separate color from the rest of the staircase. Finally, sub rails are easy to install, and they can help reduce potential construction damage.
If you're uncertain about which stair parts you need, it may be a good idea to take digital photographs of your staircase or to make photocopies of the architectural drawing plans. You can fax or e-mail these drawings to www.stairwarehouse.com, who should be able to educate you as to your construction options. Don't wait until your stairs decay further before taking action.
"Balustrade" is a general term used to describe a vertical stair assemblage. Your handrails, balusters, base rails, caps, and newel posts are all part of your balustrade. What the balustrade does is to, in effect, fence off the side of the stairs, so that people walking up and down won't fall off the side. The balustrade is anchored by the newel post, although the individual spindles do offer some support.
Balustrades can be wonderfully ornamented and decorated. Indeed, the mark of a truly exquisite staircase is a finely crafted balustrade. That said, putting together the balustrade properly involves a number of complex measurements. Moreover, you need to follow strict regulations about the dimensions of the balustrade. For instance, you must leave no more than 99 mm between spindles.
Constructing an Elegant and Timeless Balustrade
To anchor your balustrade more firmly, you might want to build in what's known as a bullnose step, which is a tread at the bottom of the staircase. The bullnose step is a nice touch, as it makes it appear as though your newel post is farther recessed into the stair. You may also use a sub rail or bottom rail for an even more sophisticated and elegant design.
The best possible height for the handrails is between 30 to 32 inches. However, if you're constructing a handrail for a balcony, you want to build in at least one meter of protection. To strengthen your balustrade assembly, make sure to follow your construction layout plan carefully. A slight skewing in the distances between your risers can result in an unstable assemblage.
Ornate wood balusters can dress up an otherwise pedestrian staircase. However, installing your balusters into your handrails and sub rails can be quite a construction task, even if you have the tools on hand to get the job done. So what are some ways to reduce the complication of wood baluster installation without harming the overall balustrade assembly?
First of all, you should maintain an even spacing of 3.5 inches between balusters. According to conventional safety standards, your balusters should be able to block a sphere measuring 100 mm in diameter. The reason why you should put balusters so close together is that the functional purpose of the spindles is to prevent "fall-through" accidents.
An easy way to connect your balusters is to nail them in before installing the handrails. That way, you won't run the risk of exposing nails or screws. Of course, you should make sure to paint your balusters before entering them into the assemblage. It doesn't cost much to add a sub rail to your balustrade, but the advantages, both aesthetically and structurally, are well worth the price.
What happens if one of your balusters comes lose after assembly? In the case that your handrails are easily detachable, you may simply want to remove the balustrade and attempt to refastened it after tightening the wood spindles. If your handrails are not removable, you may need to call in a construction expert to stabilize the loose component using translucent wood glue.
Iron stair parts -particularly iron spindles and handrails--last much longer than their wooden counterparts. Of course, if you're installing iron accoutrements for your staircase, make sure that you've worked out the measurements. It's much more difficult to retrain or cut iron balusters after it's been installed than it is to retool wood after the fact. More and more home carpenters these days employ iron stair parts in their outdoor stairs. Although iron provides a more functional aesthetic, it also tends to weather better over time, provided that you keep up-to-date with your anti-rust coats. If your iron stair parts get dented or otherwise maligned, you should probably call in a professional contractor for the job--cutting iron correctly requires an advanced knowledge of soldering technology.
Building a Sturdy Stair Case with Iron Parts The one danger with building an outdoor iron staircase is that iron conducts electricity. If your house is relatively isolated or high with respect to other nearby points, your iron staircase could act as a lightning rod. While the odds of a lightning strike on your staircase are slim, you can take precautions, such as capping your balustrades with non-conductive rubber. Iron stair parts don't have to be aesthetically minimalist. Indeed, there are plenty of ornate wrought iron balusters, particularly for newel posts. Some companies will allow you to pre-order iron balustrades or newel posts to match your home decor. However, any time you customize your stair part requirements, you usually have to pay more.
You've been going up and down those stairs in your house for years, so it's tempting to think they're just the same as they always were. But nothing lasts forever, not even the things we most take for granted. If you're starting to hear creaks, or seeing cracks in the wood or discoloration, it might be time to change out the treads.
Not to be confused with tire treads, wood stair treads are the boards across the top of the stair that your feet steps on as you walk up or down. The vertical kick plates between stairs are known as stair risers, and the saw-tooth shaped pieces supporting the stairs from beneath are stringers. All these pieces need to be fitted tightly together to avoid creaking as the stairs are being used.
If it's time to address some squeaks, cracks or other stair problems, it's a great opportunity to increase their beauty as well. Hardwood stairs with a decorative runner can increase the graciousness of your home. Ranging in price to fit any budget, stair treads can be matched to any décor.
Economical Hardwood
Poplar Stair Treads: Lightweight, and somewhat soft for a hardwood, poplar is fine-grained in white to yellow-brown. It paints well and is easy to cut.
Beech Stair Treads: Stronger than oak or maple, beech is typically a reddish-brown wood that is fairly straight grained.
Ash Stair Treads: Quite strong, ash is grayish-brown in color and grows all over USA and Canada.
Red oak stair treads: Hard, strong, rigid with a pronounced open grain, red oak resists warping. Its reddish color finishes well but is moderately hard to cut.
· Hickory Stair Treads: Very strong, hickory is known for its distinctive look and sharp contrast in light and dark color.
Mid-priced Hardwood
White Oak Stair Treads: Hard, strong, white oak is open-grained, but not as pronounced as red oak. It resists shrinking and warping, has a golden color, and finishes well.
Hard Maple Stair Treads: Extremely hard, hard maple pieces with bird's-eye or wavy grains are highly prized. Its color ranges from reddish to nearly white in color, and it finishes well.
Cherry Stair Treads: The beautiful markings in cherry have long fascinated woodworkers. The heartwood varies from light brown to a reddish brown and will gradually darken over time with exposure to light.
Walnut Stair Treads: Hard, heavy, extra strong with a fairly pronounced, straight grain, walnut resists warping and shrinking. It is light to dark brown in color and finishes well.
Luxury Hardwood
Mahogany Stair Treads: Durable and fine-grained, mahogany resists shrinking, warping, and swelling. It finishes well and is easy to cut.
Birch Stair Treads: Hard, strong and fine-grained, birch resists shrinking and warping. It is similar in color to maple and finishes fairly well.
Diversity: If you want your home to have a unique flair, try hickory, cherry, walnut, white oak, or maple for your stair treads. Go to flooring retailers or search the Internet to compare and contrast. Prefinished: Order your wood stair treads prefinished, and you won't have to deal with having to stay away from the stairs for a few days while the finish seals. Factory finished pieces can generally be installed in one day with very little mess. Also, prefinished pieces can move independently with humidity changes in your home. This decreases the risk of seasonal separations that cause those creaks. Color: Some species of flooring are so beautiful in their natural color, they do not require any added color. Compare hickory, cherry or walnut stair treads to get a sense of the possibilities. Texture: Hardwoods do not have to be smooth. Hand scraped, distressed and reclaimed pieces are becoming more and more available. These pieces have a classic look and add great value to upscale homes.
Turn those irritating squeaks into an occasion for more beauty with restored wood stair treads. The "ups and downs" in your life will suddenly become a lot better!
Concentrate on one area at a time - Whether you're starting from the very beginning with having to determine what style of architecture you want for your home or deciding on a particular element, such as my area of focus, staircase design, concentrate on that one area and work through the possibilities. With staircase design, this might mean first learning about all the different things you'll even need to decide about. What exactly is a newel post or a balustrade? Then you can get a bit more specific - what types of wood stair treads are characteristic for the architectural style we've chosen? Would iron balusters compliment the area of the home the staircase will lead to and from? Although you will be thinking about and focusing on one area in particular, thinking contextually about how this one area fits in with the rest of the home will not only help you to make good decisions, but will also help you uncover other questions to be addressed.
The key though is to note those down and come back to them. Remember, one area at a time to keep from going into overwhelm. Search out pictures of what you like and even what you don't - This is a great way to help your through your decision making process. Head to the library or a bookstore and spend some time going through magazines and books until you find something that you really like. It's again important to keep your focus narrow - look only at staircases and their elements in one sitting - don't let yourself get distracted by chandeliers you like. If you see something you want to come back to, make a note of it so you won't forget. Looking at particular elements in use is another option. Grab your digital camera and go look at buildings that might have iron balusters if you're considering them or the particular type of wood handrails you loved the sample of but would like to see in an actual home setting. Often times, vendors or builders can help you with referrals of where their work or products can be seen. Gather up all of your pictures to not only help you to solidify your vision, but to help to explain what you really want to your architects and home designers - as well as examples of what you absolutely do not want so that they really can get a visual sense of your style.
Iron doesn't only belong outside. Since it can be shaped into an unlimited number of designs, iron balusters can add fluidity and grace to the plainest stairways. And its strength and resilience satisfies themost stringent safety needs. Although we're just beginning to see iron used indoors, this trend was also popular in 16th and 17th century France and Italy . When combined with sweeping stairways and ornate ceilings, iron balusters and banisters have a rich and elegant appeal. If made of iron, balusters (the vertical elements that preventusers from slipping through the stairs) are an ideal place for alittle self-expression in decorating. They are available in innumerable shapes and many colors, and can even be custom made. If you can draw it, there's an artisan who can make it. You can create a look to work with any decorating scheme. Combined with a wooden handrail, iron balusters can still be affordable. Wood/iron combinations keep the price down, yet still provide the beauty and elegance of iron. Iron rods with twists, scrolling rods with lacy "baskets," filigree designs, and shapesfrom the botanical world are just a few of the options when you're considering iron. Special attention can be given to the newel posts--the sturdy structural posts at the top and bottom of stairways. A more elaborate design at these junctures is both beautiful andstructurally sound. Should you choose wrought iron balusters; these are some advantages. The term "wrought iron" refers to iron that has been heated, then hammered, twisted, bent, forged, or otherwise worked, most frequently for ornamental purposes, by a blacksmith or expertmetal worker. Wrought iron is commercially pure iron with a very small carbon content, but usually containing some slag. It is tough, malleable, ductile and can be easily welded. However, it is not as strong as steel, which has a higher carbon content. The rarity of true wrought iron is due to its production being extremely costly and labor intensive. Wrought iron is rarely completely pure. It is a fibrous material with many strands of slagare mixed into the metal. These slag inclusions give it a distinct look when etched. Also due to the slag, it has a fibrous look when broken or bent past its failure point. Ornamental ironwork today is often referred to as wrought iron, even though it is more likely to be made from mild steel.
Most people don't realize that changing out their old balusters for iron balusters in their staircase can be quite dramatic. In fact, it's often the type of change that goes overlooked. They are used to seeing their stairs as they always have been and short of a major remodel, in the location where they always will be; so they aren't even considered when you're looking for a project to tackle. But these are exactly the type of smaller structural elements, similar to changing countertops and cabinets in a kitchen that can make a big shift in your home -- but in most cases at a dramatically more affordable price than tackling your kitchen! And the impact is going to amaze you, especially if you take the look and feel in a different direction from your home's current design style. For example, if your home has had a country look and feel with wooden balusters, imagine the impact that retrofitting with iron balusters with a gothic influence could have. If your current furniture can work with a dramatic style change like that, or if simple slipcovers will make it work, then you can even punch it up a bit more with some minor cosmetic elements like wall color, window coverings and various accessories, and your redesign project could far exceed your expectations for a much smaller budget than you had ever imagined. All just from focusing on something as obvious, but neglected, as your staircase and adding wrought iron balusters as the main design element.
What are the differences between stainless steel balustrades and iron balusters. The main difference is the look. Most people that buy stainless steel balustrades for their home have more of a contemporary style in mind. While, iron balusters can be used in everything from modern contemporary to French Country. Most of the iron balusters at stairwarehouse.com are powder coated and ready to be installed in a wooden handrail. And, most of the stainless steel balustrade systems are of a bright polished look and a more modern feel.
Installation of the iron balusters are very easy as most people just drill holes in the handrail and treads and epoxy. Stainless steel balustrades are a little bit more technical and may need the assistance of a handy installer. Either way, both iron balusters and stainless steel balustrades are very functional and beautiful.